After my visit in November of last year, I had to return to Istanbul for more dental work. I arrived at midnight on the 3rd of February and as my first appointment turned out not to be until 3pm on the 5th, I had the whole of the 4th to myself. And lucky I did because although it was very chilly with a cold northerly wind it turned out to be the only dry day, allowing me to get out and about to shoot enough material for a video.
4th February
Despite the stiff wind, I walked the length of Galataport overlooking the Bosphorus and was incredibly impressed. I do not know what it was like previously but now it has been developed and is lined with modern hotels, cafes, restaurants, coffee shops and other places of interest that must be wonderful in the summer months, but not so much now. Even so there were still plenty of tourists enjoying its attractions despite the weather.
And like everywhere else where tourists gather, the security was outstanding and highly visible. To get into Galataport you have to pass through security with metal detectors similar to those in airports. Even if you get in through a store with an entrance on the street there is security in the store entrance and once you are on the quayside there are security officers in uniform, but not police, many of them female, every 100 metres or so keeping their eyes peeled and watching what’s going on.
Istanbul is not the place for you if you’re not reasonably mobile. The walk down from my hotel to my dental clinic takes about half an hour. It’s all downhill on the way down, so uphill on the way back. And the hills are steep. After walking the length of Galataport on Tuesday I ended up way past the road that I would usually have taken to return to my hotel so with my new knowledge of the area I decided instead to head back up to the famous Galata Tower and then back along the main boulevard along which the Taksim trams run.
I was in for a nasty surprise because after leaving Galataport and the flat area next to the sea on which it is situated behind me, the hill up which I had to climb to get up to the Galata Tower, although not that long, was the steepest that I had come across so far, and consisting of large, uneven, bumpy cobblestones. I’m not now in the first flush of youth, or even in the peak of fitness, so this represented some challenge, but I doggedly stuck at it thinking that if I stopped I’d have problems getting going again and made it to the top out of breath and probably with heart pounding. I was then able to stop and take some video of the tower which gave me the respite I needed before continuing my ascent, but this time on far less of an incline.
5th February
A cold northerly wind and snow flurries today. I ended the day with a sore mouth, couldn’t feel my nose and didn’t know for the life of me what I would be able to eat in the evening. And if I thought my hill-climbing experience the day before was bad, it was totally eclipsed today. There’s a turning heading upwards just after leaving the dental clinic and my guess was that it would take me up to Taksim Square from where I could stroll down to my hotel. I checked in a fancy pastry shop on the main road and they confirmed that it would, so off I went and would I live to regret it.
The usual route I take ascends gradually and only has one steep uphill section that is fairly demanding for one of my age and fitness but not so as to cause great physical discomfort. The same could definitely not be said of this route which was one continuous incline right from the get go. And what I hadn’t realised is that Taksim Square is also at quite a higher elevation than my hotel so the climb was also greater as well as being longer.
Nevertheless I again resolved not to give up and did the whole climb without stopping, but I shan’t do it again as this one I did find demanding. I was temporarily shattered by the time I got up to the square and had to take a few moments to get myself together again. Sounds silly, but I’m glad I got back to doing my 10 minute morning work-outs after Christmas which I’m convinced have actually been of great benefit to me.
6th February
With the weather being so unkind this time around, being outside hasn’t been much fun. Today started with an unexpected period of blazing sunshine but I hadn’t planned to go out and was in my hotel room, which is now on the top floor with a small balcony overlooking the rooftops and a small table and chairs. But no chance of using them this visit.
My dental appointments have also cut the day in half leaving little time for other activities so taken all round, my list of things that I intended to do has so far gone untouched. I decided yesterday to have a further unscheduled implant to replace the bungled crown inserted in a right-hand front top tooth by my French dentist. It involved extracting the root and then immediately inserting the implant root, so the wound was a bit raw and painful despite the prescribed antibiotics and painkillers.
By the time I left for the afternoon’s appointment the sunshine was long gone and I stepped out into a chilly northerly wind interspersed by periods of light snow and frozen rain, so there was little incentive afterwards to do anything other than return to my hotel.
An observation I made during my walk to the clinic. I hadn’t really noticed last time how almost everyone in Istanbul is a smoker and I wouldn’t be at all surprised if that even included babies and young children who are probably initiated into the smoking habit at a very young age. As you walk past the shops there are invariably people (mainly staff) of both sexes and all ages standing outside alone or in small groups puffing away and outside many of them tables and chairs placed there specifically for the purpose.
Balconies on upstairs floors of tall buildings invariably have individuals or small groups on them puffing away and shivering in the cold while they get their nicotine kick and it’s not very nice when the person you are walking behind in the street turns out to be a smoker when they exhale a foul smelling cloud of smoke which you walk into.
But if you think that’s bad, although there are what appear to be ‘No Smoking’ signs in my hotel’s restaurant, ash trays are actually handed out to patrons who then make constant use of them with their stinky fumes then drifting in your direction while you’re eating. And the previous evening I was next to a group of four guys who did just that, and I mean constant, because one, or usually more, of them smoked the whole time, before, during and after their meal even while they were actually eating. I couldn’t believe it but that’s Istanbul for you.
I could really only eat soft stuff for now and this morning I only had a few slices of bread (with its crusts cut off) and honey washed down with several cups of sweet Turkish tea. No lunch so I bought a box of Turkish Delight and some fruit jellies as I made my way back along the boulevard from Taksim Square. I managed a bowl of chicken soup and a bowl of spaghetti bolognese (Turkish style) for dinner this evening… but come bedtime I’d already eaten half of the sweets that I’d bought. I reckon I needed the sugar to replace all the energy I expended climbing those hills 😉
7th February
Off again this morning leaving the hotel at about 12.30 to have a temporary crown fitted to the new implant. We woke this morning to a thunderstorm and although it eased off, the rain pelted down while I was having a similar breakfast to yesterday’s and during my walk to the clinic.
8th February
Although theoretically my treatment was over for now, I couldn’t leave until 12th February as my flight and hotel had been pre-booked and pre-paid, so I was stuck in a cold, wintery Istanbul up until then. Here are some of my thoughts in the meantime.
With inflation running at just over 42% p.a. in Turkey, one of the things that’s noticeable is by how much the cost of ‘eating out’ has increased even since I was here in November of last year. In the first three days after arriving in Istanbul I had three evening meals which were relatively simple and the food not particularly noteworthy.
On the first evening I had a beer with my meal and the bill came to 1450 TL. At an exchange rate of around 37 TL to one euro (it’s currently standing at 37.06) that works out to 39€ which I considered a bit extreme for what was delivered.
While I was sore following dental treatment I had two evening meals here in my hotel. On both occasions they were very simple – just soup and pasta with a drink followed by a ‘Nescafé with milk’. The first one was fish soup followed by chicken noodles with which I also had a white wine and that came to 1400 TL, equivalent to just over 37,80€. The second was chicken soup followed by spaghetti bolognese (very much Turkish style!) with a red wine, and that came to 1300 TL, equivalent to just over 35€.
But both of these were beaten on the 7th when, despite the constant heavy rain, I decided I’d ‘hit the town’ and find somewhere a bit more amenable than my hotel’s restaurant. I also now had a more adequate set of teeth at my disposal but under the circumstances I didn’t want to go too far and just ended up at the Astral Fish and Steak Restaurant on the boulevard leading up to Taksim Square.
Many of the eating establishments are covered but fully open to the weather and people were eating in them despite it being cold, windy and extremely wet but the Astral offered enclosed eating, although I still found it rather cold inside. The food on the other hand, I found more than adequate – although it came at a price. I ordered a platter of three lamb chops that came on a base of pitta bread with a few chips, some chopped red onion and peppers, a large chunk of grilled tomato and a very tasty large grilled green pepper. I also ordered a bowl of mixed salad on the side, which turned out to be huge, and a 50cl glass of local beer and finished off with a small coffee that had sludge in the bottom, which I quite like.
This came to 1782,50 TL, which is equivalent to just over 48€. The chops were absolutely delicious – tender and perfectly cooked – but I think the cost of the meal was way over the top for what it was. Imagine if you came for 10 days with a partner. Your ‘eating out’ costs alone in that period would be around 1000€!
At these rates I think the level of tourism will eventually be affected as Turkey’s reputation as an ‘economic’ holiday destination will be badly dented. Or is it just me? Am I expecting to pay too little?
By the way, a ‘grande’ but in reality medium-size latte and awful sticky donut at Starbucks at the Galataport cost 249 TL (equivalent to 6,73€) which was 139 TL (3,75€) for the coffee and 110 TL (2,97€) for the disgusting donut, so perhaps all is not lost. Or maybe it is, if that’s where people will be forced to eat and drink at economic prices, away from the establishments offering more traditional and local fare.
The rain continued almost non-stop. I wanted to get across the Bosphorus on the ferry, visit the Grand Bazaar and climb the Galata Tower but I decided to leave all of my plans until the following week before returning home, when the weather was forecast to improve very slightly. I had nothing else to do as I had no need to revisit the dental clinic – just keep taking the antibiotics every 12 hours. Even the prescribed pain killers were no longer needed (5 days antibiotics and pain killers came in at 226 TL equivalent to 6,11€ which I think is very reasonable).
Although it stopped raining at around midday and it turned quite bright, thick low clouds were zipping across the sky and wind gusts of up to 45kmh or more were forecast for the afternoon. So I decided to stay indoors and nip out for a burger or something later. I was fed up with getting soaked through every time I went out.
In order to complete the work on the extra implant I have to return to Istanbul in early May. I booked my flights today because prices will undoubtedly begin to rise as the weather improves and we begin to enter the main tourist season. The cost of the return flight last November was 246€. The figure increased to 260€ for this current trip and I paid 293€ for the return flight in May. The trick is to be flexible on dates and I increased my stay by one day in May at the cost of an extra night in the hotel in order to obtain a much greater saving on my air fare.
The hotel I’m staying at, the Mien Suites, is typical of the dozens of small, privately owned hotels in Istanbul. It doesn’t have lots of stars to its name and its prices reflect that but it’s clean and comfortable and its staff are friendly and remembered me from my last visit. It’s also well placed in Beyoglu and just a 20 minute walk to the dental clinic, so that’s all good for me.
My 9 night stay this time around cost me 301€, booked through Agoda. When I arrived I was greeted by the owner and he said that I should have contacted him direct, so I passed a note to one of his sons with details of my upcoming 8 night stay in May. I’d hoped to get a good price on the same room I stayed in this time but it was not to be and I ended up booking a room in the Mara hotel that’s next to the Aral restaurant where I enjoyed an excellent, but pricey meal, a few evenings previously.
9th February
The weather forecast for Istanbul was ‘Mostly cloudy and chilly, a shower in spots late this morning followed by occasional rain and drizzle this afternoon’. At the time I made the posting it was 4 degrees C but with a stiff north-easterly wind making it feel like 0 degrees at best and possibly lower.
So it wasn’t much fun being there and I’d rather have been at home, but there was nothing I could do about it. It was so cold and wet the previous day that apart from going out for a Burger King (265 TL, just over 7€, for a burger with fries and a Coca Cola) in the afternoon I stayed in my hotel room for the rest of the day. And I couldn’t see much incentive for doing anything different today.
Back on the subject of food again.
Burger King Whopper meal with fries and a Coca Cola yesterday, 265 TL (7,16€).
Take-away kebab skewer today from a small local cafe with chick-peas, chopped onion, a smallish grilled green pepper and half a grilled tomato, albeit in a plastic container with plastic knife and fork, 525 TL (14,19€).
So the ‘simple’ traditional dish costs twice as much. Is it worth it? I don’t think so. What do you think? Are they pricing themselves out of the fast food market?
10th February
Still stuck in my hotel room stuffing my face with Turkish Delight and getting fat. And to top it all, the temporary crown inserted last week had just fallen out, so it turned out to be fortunate in a way that my stay in Istanbul was extended because it enabled a replacement to be fitted.
11th February
A late appointment (6.30 pm) to give the dental lab time to make a new temporary crown in under 24 hours, which I thought was vey impressive as it basically consists of a small plate with a single false tooth. My gum was, and still is, a bit sore with it in place but as the dentist said, it’s not surprising as the wound was still very raw even though he removed a few of the remaining stitches he’d inserted last week before fitting it.
So that was it for this visit and I’m looking forward to going back in May when I’ll be in Istanbul for 8 nights and the weather is bound to be much kinder So I should be able to do a few activities that I have planned as there are lots of things to do and see.
In the meantime, here’s the video that I shot the day after I arrived on 4th February.